Friday, 14 June 2013

Brighton Fashion Week 2013: Zeitgeist

St Bartholomew Church. Inside the church. Aimee Matthew-John Trousers. Belles Bejeweled This Is Exile. Magnea Einardóttir Still Attracted To Opposites. Major London 05 A/W13 Misunderstood. Tata Christiane Comet Club Collector
Brian Chan- The Fusion of Fine Art and Fashion. Katie Jones- Slab City S/S14
Frances O'Leary Time and Lines S/S14. Jovana Markovic A/W13

Jess Eaton- Parachutes and Birds. Roadkill Couture

Last night saw the arrival of the first show for Brighton Fashion Week, held in the stunning St Bartolomews Church in Brighton. The name of the show- Zeitgeist- and with a focus on time, it acknowledged ' inspiration from the past and pushing it into the future, all the while remaining rooted in the present'. The venue itself was amazing, with some of the highest ceilings I've seen in a church and with decor that fittingly seems to have succumbed to effects of time also. Zeitgeist showcased 12 currents designers including Dioralop, Hyungtae Kim and Faye Baldwin in addition to those mentioned above with the photos.

My favourite collections were the ones I expected that I would like- Aimée Matthew- John showed a collection of of on point tailoring with clean cut trousers and backless suits with . Initially inspired by menswear, she took the classic suit silhouette and adapted to a more feminine figure, teasing with small glimpses of flesh.
Belles Bejeweled was colourful yet simple in order to keep the focus on the intricate geometric laser cut jewellery. Combined with the vibrant headscarves, it was almost Middle Eastern with a modern twist.
Onto my two favourites- Jovana Markovic showcased her Autumn/Winter 13 line and it was everything I hoped it would be with the use of black and oxblood leather contrasting with lighter and lacier fabrics. Of all of the collections, this is one which I could see being transferred into high street fashion, ideal for the upcoming autumn season. It's the perfect balance of gothic and girly which I could see many people falling for.
Along with Jovana, I also loved the work of Frances O'Leary with a collection named Time and Lines. Printed onto a silky almost sheer fabric, there was a mix of whispy linear patterns, reminiscent of tree tops, and softened tie dye/ batik print resembling space images. Again this was one of the collections that I could see being sold into the 'Great British Highstreet'. I nod my head to the use of silver glittery jelly shoes as footwear, a throwback to 90's childhood for myself.
A honourable mention has to be made to Katie Jones who featured neon crocheted sugar skull balaclavas and indeed a very bright collection over all and Brian Chan, who perhaps drew the most murmurs in the crowd with his bizarre yet colourful creations- it was aptly named the Fusion of Fashion and Art. They were kooky and certainly unusual but we wouldn't expect anything less.

Last but not least was the highlight of the Zeitgeist show- Jess Eaton and her Roadkill Couture collection. Despite an unexpected 20 minute wait, it was worth it to see how she used recycled parachute fabric and the feathers of dead birds  and antlers to create some truly outstanding creations. They ranged from perhaps more wearable looks with feathered details to the beautiful final pieces- one-a meringue of shredded fabric that looked ethereal coming down the catwalk and the second an almost religious, golden winged dress complete with feathered halo. Full props to Jess Eaton for creating what must have been a time consuming and skilled work of love. To the people who left during the wait, I'm sure they regret it.

The next show is Sustain with a focus of eco and ethical fashion
I hope you guys like
What has caught your eye?
xx

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